You're essentially doing a hybrid fly/batch sparge by trying to match the outflow of the wort. I did see that but wasn't sure if you were doing that every batch. My mash/lauter efficiency yesterday with hitting preboil volume was 82.4%. Nonetheless, after about 10minutes of the last sparge quart being added to grains, I lift the bag to gravity drain while pump the wort back to the foundry. Im convinced that sparging with the bag in place without disturbing the grain bed at all, gets a slightly better sparge than lifting the bag full. Once the wort line gets to the top of grain bed, I gently and slowly add one quart at a time to the top of the grain bed of sparge water. So to sparge, I sparge with the bag in place while doing a slow drain/pump of the wort to a second kettle. Ive posted pics in this thread that I have ditched the malt pipe and just use the bag inside the kettle with a brewzilla false bottom. But my sparge process is different than how the anvil foundry is intended. So thats how I do it overall and being flexible with my time allows me to do it this way as well which may or may not be feasible for others.
#Anvil foundry max grain bill free
Ideally, I would love to be able to dump it all in the fermenter immediately, but with free roaming hops and other cold break, etc - it does take time to settle in that tall narrow foundry. A one hour hot PBW cycle during dinner time was all that was needed. Yes, it does make for a longer brew day overall, but by the time 5:30 came along the ONLY things I still had to clean was the foundry and pump and the attached hoses. So at 5:30pm (3.5hrs later) it was nice and settled. To get that clear wort in the end, I think this is a combination of 3 things: 1) If I don't have to bag squeeze, there is less gunk going to the BK, I find that one good squeeze generally still gets clear wort out but any more and the gunky/cloudy stuff starts coming out, 2) I use whir floc on EVERY beer, even NEIPAs - they still turn out hazy at the end but not "murky" which I don't prefer, and 3) after I finished chilling yesterday at 2pm, I wheeled my cart over to the minifridge with fermenter, then attended to family "stuff".
Reiterated mashing is a process in which you create a wort from your first runnings and then use that wort as your strike water for essentially your second mashing.Click to expand.Yes I am sparging. You will be able to brew those big, robust Russian Imperial Stouts or dank Barleywines with little to no effort. Whether you are an all-grain brewer using the trusty cooler for a mash-tun or an all-grain brewer using the Brew in the Bag (BIAB) method, like myself, reiterated mashing may be your saving grace.
#Anvil foundry max grain bill pro
One of the biggest challenges for a pro brewer or homebrewer has to be brewing big beers.įor the argument sake, I am classifying ‘big beers” anything with a starting gravity over 1.080. This was my effort, however minimal and innocuous, to bring more attention to this wonderful beer style. Somehow with all the crazy attention Barrel Aged Stouts and Pastry Stouts receive these days, Imperial Porters have pretty much gone to the waste side. After brewing a Belgian Stout a few days prior, I felt the need to brew up a nice Imperial Porter. Those beers that warm your bones as you sip it next to the fire. You know, those beers that look forward to after shoveling the snow in December or January. After I brewed my Oktoberfest, my mind started wondering to big beers.
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